Archive | April 2014

Smocking and Scallops

This dress began as a blank with the pleating already in place. The smocking is a simple trellis design in colors to match the ribbon roses used to embellish the dress.

yoke smocking

yoke smocking

I created the piping and attached it to the sleeves and collar. A lace beading trim was stitched on the sleeve with satin ribbon for “gathering”.

The hem features a Madeira Scallop technique using Wash-Away Thread, in both the bobbin and top thread. Cut your piece for the scallops a bit wider and longer than needed and fold in half. Mark the scallops and stitch 1/4″ away from that line. To make turning a bit easier, take one stitch across the point of the scallop. Turn the piece and press lightly to set the edges.

turned scallops

turned scallops

Now, the next few steps are the IMPORTANT ones! Do NOT pull apart yet! Spray starch the turned edge until fairly wet. Press until COMPLETELY DRY. Once dry, gently pull the pieces apart.

scallops after pressing

scallops after pressing

This process sets the 1/4″ turned edge. Pretty neat, huh! Place the scallop onto the hem – right side of scallop to wrong side of dress. Stitch the long edge of the scallop trim and turn to the front of the dress. Press and stitch (I used a pinstitch) the scallops to the dress.

pinstitch scallops

pinstitch scallops

Small ribbon roses complete the embellishment, with one rose on each scallop point and at the center of the collar.

finished dress

finished dress

This was a fun and easy project. The dress can be customized with colors of your choice!